Western Herzegovina is situated in the southwestern part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, offers a unique combination of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural heritage, making it an ideal destination for all types of travelers.
Posušje represents an ideal destination for those who wish to explore natural wonders
Rich cultural heritage, and authentic Herzegovinian hospitality. We felt welcomed and appreciated, further enriching our stay experience. Its strategic location makes it convenient for exploration, and we stayed in a modern and new rental apartment. Adjacent to the church, in the basement of the parish house, is the “House of My Father” museum, showcasing various artifacts from the local area.
We dined at the interesting and excellent tavern, “Kod Strukića.” The owner, Tomislav Kovač, known as Strukić, is a distinctive character who crafts traditional instruments such as gusle and diple, which he also plays, singing traditional Herzegovinian songs with his friends. He is the founder of a cultural and artistic society and manages the restaurant.
Waterfall and Topala golf course
We sought and found, with a guide, the beautiful Žukovica waterfall, seemingly hidden in the forest. The sight resembles scenes from a movie, with water cascading into the deep blue hues of a small lake. It is located in the village of Zagorje, near Posušje. On the other side of the field lies the Topala golf course, the only one in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The Posušje Golf Club has been operating since 2006, offering a nine-hole course at half the price of those in Zagreb. It’s close to the Croatian border, just a half-hour drive from Makarska.
Stećci – try to pronounce it
Stećci, medieval tombstones, represent one of the most interesting and significant parts of the cultural heritage of Herzegovina and the broader Balkan region. Some of the largest are in the immediate vicinity of Posušje, near the old bridge on Ričina. We also visited the Dugo Polje necropolis in Blidinje, one of the largest and best-preserved. Protected by UNESCO since 2006, there are about 100,000 of them throughout the Western Balkans.
Lakes and mountains
Blidinje Lake, located at an altitude of 1185 meters within the Blidinje Nature Park, is a habitat for various plant and animal species and a popular destination for recreation, including hiking, fishing, and cycling. In winter, Blidinje is a popular skiing destination with groomed slopes for skiing and snowboarding. We had lunch near the lake at the excellent Bosiljna restaurant, boasting its own vegetable production, with a beautiful location overlooking the field. Nearby is the Tribistovo reservoir lake at 915 meters altitude, stretching about 500 meters in length.
Masna Luka is a small mountain settlement located within the Blidinje Nature Park, known for its Franciscan monastery and beautiful natural surroundings. The settlement is often a starting point for hikers and excursionists exploring the Čvrsnica and Vran mountains.
The Franciscan monastery in Masna Luka is a spiritual and cultural center of the region. Built as a place of peace and silence, surrounded by dense forests and mountain landscapes, the monastery features a church dedicated to St. Elijah, as well as accommodation facilities for visitors and pilgrims. The monastery often hosts spiritual renewal seminars and workshops, providing visitors with an opportunity for spiritual deepening and enjoyment of natural beauty. The Church of St. Elijah, like the monastery, was built in the 1980s under the patronage of Fra. Petar Krasić.
Ljubuški: the center of the region
En route to Ljubuški, we sought and barely found a special cave. It is located near Grude, in the village of Drinovci. The adventure park “Peć Mlini” is interesting due to its historical significance and archaeological finds. In the Ravlića cave, the skeleton of a girl about 7,700 years old was found, along with numerous archaeological artifacts. Near the cave are mills, from which the place got its name, and the entire area is very picturesque and attractive to visitors.
Descending a steep and narrow road, we stopped at the source of the Tihaljine River within the adventure park. A beautiful place with deep greenery through which babbling streams flow, creating numerous small waterfalls. We could see the walls of former mills.
One of the main reasons to visit Western Herzegovina is its spectacular natural landscapes.
Kravica Waterfalls, located near Ljubuški, offers an unforgettable sight with a height of 25 meters and a width of 120 meters. These waterfalls create a natural pool perfect for swimming and picnicking, especially during the summer months. They are the most famous waterfalls in the country and can be crowded in the summer. Along the shore are several restaurants that, in my opinion, are too close to the water and have too many tables by the lake, obscuring the view and access. A train runs from the upper parking lot to the waterfall and back, and it can also be reached by stairs. The access road to the lake is not well-maintained, so caution is needed, especially when wet. A boat can be taken to go under the waterfall.
Smaller but equally charming is the Koćuša waterfall located in the village of Veljaci in the municipality of Ljubuški, on the Mlade River. It is about five meters high and fifty meters wide. On the other side of the shore is the renowned restaurant Vodopad where we had lunch. It was a Sunday, and everything was busy, so it’s advisable to make reservations in advance. The barbecue was good as expected.
Wine and Food
We had lunch at the modernly decorated Tabak restaurant in a former tobacco factory. An excellent restaurant that could be in any European metropolis with its design and menu offerings. We had Japrak, which goes perfectly with black Blatina. We visited the famous Most restaurant for dinner and also had only words of praise. Needless to say, I gained three kilograms in three days. We drank Trnjak and tasted several producers, of which Nuićev impressed us the most.
The Begić Winery was an ideal place for breakfast in the vineyard. Alongside fritters, prosciutto, and cheese, we tasted Žilavka, rosé, and Plavac Mali from this small boutique winery in the village of Prolog near the Croatian border. The Hotel Bigeste, named after the Roman camp that was located in the Ljubuški area, is modern and comfortable. It is located in the center of the town, has its parking, and offers a good breakfast.
Gastronomy enthusiasts will enjoy authentic Herzegovinian cuisine. Specialties such as meat dishes cooked under the bell, Herzegovinian prosciutto, and cheese made in the skin are a true delight for the palate. The region is also known for its vineyards and excellent wines, especially the Blatina and Žilavka varieties. We were surprised by the lesser-known indigenous Trnjak variety.
The Franciscans in Herzegovina
With their historical monasteries and cultural contributions, further enrich the visit to this region. Their presence over the centuries has preserved the spiritual and cultural heritage that is still very much alive today. They arrived in Herzegovina in the 13th century, shortly after the establishment of the Franciscan Order in Italy. Their presence was particularly important during Ottoman rule when they were often the only spiritual and educational guides for the local population.
A visit to Western Herzegovina offers an opportunity to explore incredible natural beauty, dive into rich history, and enjoy authentic culinary specialties, creating an unforgettable experience for every visitor.
